[928uk] Fw: The Brake Fiasco Goes On

Paul R Smith smiffypr at clear.net.nz
Sun Feb 26 20:46:33 UTC 2012


That split is just in the sleeve. To inspect hoses you need to do what 
the MoT man does: 1) look at the hoses while someone else presses the 
brake pedal (engine running for servo assistance), 2) fold the hose back 
on itself and see if any surface cracks open up. While you're in there, 
start soaking all the rusty connections with penetrating oil.

The pads are held in by the Maltese cross spring clips, the holes are 
for other applications which do use pins.

The bubbling under the paint is a sure sign that there will also be 
corrosion between the calliper bodies and the stainless steel end plates.

Can you push the pads back (away from the disks)? They all look like 
they are partially seized, and this will certainly give you extra pedal 
movement as when you press the pedal, the first part of the movement is 
flexing the pads to bring them into contact with the disks.

As a bare minimum, you need to get the pads moving freely. The correct 
thing to do is to remove the end-plates and remove the corrosion, or the 
temporary bodge is to file off some of the pad backing plate to allow 
them to no longer bind. This is temporary though as the corrosion will 
not stop until the callipers are taken back to bare metal and repainted 
(especially behind the end plates). If you do decide to do the callipers 
yourself, you will need to apply heat to release the end-plate screws 
(they were held in with loctite, now assisted by corrosion), so you need 
to remove the seals before you do that.

Smiffy

On 27/02/2012 4:07 a.m., Kevin Fearon wrote:
> Sorry, copy to list.
>
>     ----- Forwarded Message -----
>     *From:* Kevin Fearon <kevin_fearon at yahoo.co.uk>
>     *To:* Sam Rawcliffe <rawko at hotmail.com>
>     *Sent:* Sunday, 26 February 2012, 15:03
>     *Subject:* Re: [928uk] The Brake Fiasco Goes On
>
>     Hi Sam,
>
>     The split in the hose in picture 1 would probably make me replace
>     all of the hoses.
>
>     I also noticed that in picture 3 that the pad looks as if it may
>     not be installed correctly; shouldn't there be a retaining pin
>     through that hole in the brake pad backing plate? (Maybe in
>     picture 2 also)
>
>     Since the brakes are vitally important for both your own safety
>     and that of other road users, why not take the car to a MoT tester
>     to get them checked? Lots of places offer a free brake check, and
>     if you visit one there is no obligation to get the work done by them.
>     But there is undoubtedly work to be done.
>
>     The reduced contact patch shown in the final picture is worrying,
>     and indicates that braking efficiency on that wheel is
>     dramatically reduced.
>
>     It could be a matter of life or death, and I hope it doesn't cost
>     an arm and a leg to get them sorted. That the squidgy pedal
>     compelled you to check the brake system as you have done is really
>     very fortunate.
>
>     Kindest regards,
>
>     Kevin
>
>
>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>         *From:* Sam Rawcliffe <rawko at hotmail.com>
>         *To:* 928uk at lists.928.org.uk
>         *Sent:* Sunday, 26 February 2012, 14:15
>         *Subject:* [928uk] The Brake Fiasco Goes On
>
>         Hi There,
>
>         I have been trying to diagnose my squidgy brakes for a few
>         weeks now. I realise it could yet be the MC leaking inside,
>         but I want to be sure it isn't first! I have had chance this
>         weekend to look over all four corners, and I was hoping to put
>         past you all what I found.
>
>         http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=c670762f.jpg
>         <http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=c670762f.jpg>
>
>         Firstly, generally old looking hoses. I think I know the
>         answer to this, but should I replace them? The join between
>         the hose and RR caliper seemed moist also.
>
>         http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=704133ee.jpg
>         <http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=704133ee.jpg>
>
>         http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=71746f5a.jpg
>         <http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=71746f5a.jpg>
>
>         The plates in the front calipers didn't seem to be squeezing
>         the pads too much, they looked like they had been repaired
>         before actually on some of them...
>
>         http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=3b3d6bd8.jpg
>         <http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z3/riffraff321/?action=view&current=3b3d6bd8.jpg>
>
>         The contact patch of the rear disc seemed smaller than the
>         front, is it ok?
>
>         Finally, on the RR corner, the pads sound like they're
>         squeaking when the brakes are applied. Could they be jammed in
>         the calipers, and then be giving me a squishy pedal?
>
>         Cheers,
>         Sam Rawcliffe
>
>
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>
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